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November 09 Fogged 6°C, Fog Now, suddenly we see it's winter. I am not cold. Credit that to long-johns & a vest. I am stunned by my tiredness, it's been quite a weekend. But as I usually say, in that tedious middle-aged bloke way, Monday is the day to recover from a good weekend. Further, those long-johns are too warm, I have been forced to take them off and cool down. November 01 Camp was indeed cosy 10°C, freshening. Warm, dry and very campable week. ![]() Great campsite, only us, the river and a Portaloo in the opposite corner. Oh, and not to forget- about six sheep. After a day's walking, I'd wash in the river, and collect water for the camp.The wind was odd, despite the revailing southerly, all of the big gusts were from the west. The tent held. October 04 Succession (contingent upon) 15°C, clear, minimal breeze Secession: could this be the word I am looking for? We need (as you know from previous posts on here) a word for the process of nature reclaiming derelict man-made sites. this Beech is watching you from Beaudesert. On second thoughts, Succession is pretty close to the idea I had in mind, see here: Wiki September 27 Cadair insteadAugust 23 I return (for now)August 09 Llwybr Cyhoeddus 22°C, sunny Came back from Wales a day early because of some guttural illness. It was not easy trailing up that 1:5 hill to get to the toilet block of that last camp-site. I was there a week and had quite an experience. Day 1: Carneddau: Easy walk up to the first peak. Little more than finishing off walk in June that I cut short because of time. Summit Pen Yr Helgi Du, 845m Day 2: Glyders. The first days were difficult; wet weather meant I got lost on a mountain Glyder Fawr. It had clear paths but each one led to nowhere, we'd spent 2½ hours looking for the route up there in the clouds. that was stressful. In despiration, I took a southerly route after spotting a clearing in the cloud and seeing a lake that was recognisable. Even so, getting down that slope took two hours- it was very steep and no clear pathways there either. This took us to the wrong side of the mountain but the 5 mile walk back to camp was at least clear. Summits: Y Foel Goch 805m; Glyder Fach, 994m Day 3: Drive home- but a change of mind while passing through Betws-y-coed saw me turn south and pitch the tent on the coast at Llandanwg. It was a glimmer of sumshine that did it. Day 4: the Rhinogs: Change of weather and the sun comes out- so repeat that route up the Roman steps (from June) with no fog to obscure the route this time. This time we made the ascent up to Rhinog Fawr Summit: Rhinog Fawr. 720m Day 5: Cnicht: Another magnificent day, you meet some great people on these mountains. There is nothing lonely about taking a holiday on your own in places like this. It's probably better having a conversation breaker, in this case; a dog. Summits: Cnicht, 740m, Moelwyn Mawr 770m in blazing sun. Day 6: Move to Cader Idris, the camp next to Kings Youth Hostel. Excellent site which became rather crowded and Friday evening wore on. Tents were pitched with overlapping guys. There was a developing community there, many knew each other before and the atmosphere was excellent. But.. I became ill in the night. Must be something I ate. Here is an excellent guide to Welsh pronunciation: Placenames May 28 Yr wyddfa, Carneddeau & Rhinoggs 14-19°C, Sunburn, rain, fog & gales Sunday, Yr Wyddfa: (Mt Snowdon, 1085m) and Yr Aran (745m): Got up when I woke (5am), then drove to The western slopes of Mt Snowdon. Started the climb at 10.30. Parked at Ryd Ddu and took the route up to Yr Aran. Pure blues skies and light winds. This day turned into a 10 hour hike.I came down from Yr Aran to the Watkin path and then climbed Snowdon. The Summit was too crowded to stay more than a few minutes, so then headed down the Snowdon Ranger track. After the drive to Wales, this was an additional 10 hour hike, I slept well that night after hotel troubles were solved. So now I have done all of the major ascent routes of Snowdon. Those remaining are proper scrambles, but I can't take Rosie on terrain like that. Monday: Southern Carneddeau: A day of 3 summits> Penyr Ole Wen (978m), along the ridge to Carnedd Dafyd (1044m)> Carnedd Llewellyn (1064m) This was largely straight-forward, especially after I met a couple of teachers from Tamworth who were experts on that route. The panorama at the top was .... <insert flowery words here>. Near the rockwalls of Craig Yr Isfa was a really tricky descent. Getting Rosie down here was interesting. I made a mental note to get her a harness, the sort you can lift a dog with. Perhaps a rope too; just in case the worst happens and we get stuck. Agile though she is, her claws face backwards so are not so great when facing a descending slope . I went ahead, turned and braced with arms apart to let her slide into my grasp. That's real trust. Tuesday, a day on the beach at Harlech & Llandanwg with Jo. A little chilly, but kept warm with cups of tea and hilarious banter. We saw Rosie watching the local Gwlffreandded; she's obsessed! Wednesday: Rhinogg Hills. A wet stormy day with strong westerly winds. Took the Roman steps route up from Cwm Bychan. As we got into the clouds, the rain stopped and visibility remained at about 30 meters. The steps were more a cascade of small waterfalls; I pictured Roman centurians in their Jesus-sandals. The stones were reasonably regular, smooth and rather slimy in places. Grip was poor. Rosie saw me fall once and came over concerned and licked my face. The perfect travelling companion; she makes other dogs look rubbish. Finding lakes along the route as they slowly materialised out of the mist was a very impressive moment each time. You have to work out your position on the map with a compass direction matched against the curve of the lake-side. The water rippled softly below the grainy clouds that moved besides and through us. Both air and water had the same silvery colour so coming across lakewater each time was a shock. Unexpected and reassuring- the map reading was working. We then sloshed our way though rocks and black marshy peaty land. Stepping on innocuous patches of sodden grass often plunged your foot into flowing clean water. Another great day. I wish I could have stayed another few days, there is so much more to do and see. In the meantime, I am going to look seriously into kitting out with camping gear. Late hotel breakfasts were a bind, sometimes I didn't finish eating until 9. I wake at six. May 16 Mynd recce 14°C, windy & heavy downpours. Amazed: to have escaped the worst downpours on the Long Mynd today. No off-lead romping for Rosie though- sheep everywhere. It's a remarkably gorgeous place. We test-walked a route that our Duke Of Edinburgh kids will do soon. The surface is very easy going, even the steep bits, much of it can be run. Read that Wiki article for some interesting geology- this oft missed place has a really interesting pre-history. Nowadays, it is covered with groups performing the DofE marching ritual. ![]() April 15 Mt. Snowdon 1085m asl 11°C, heavy showers clearing. Yesterday: climbed Snowdon up the Watkins path. After a few thousand feet, I found myself with a delightful family who hadn't taken that route before. They were lovely, though I would have been just as happy with the solitude at high altitude. Climbing mountains is about searching, a longing for something elusive in the distance and in these places you get closer to touching something. Talking to that family, I shall call the "howards" left less space for the first quest. The summit was a more intense emotional experience for the wrong reasons: Rosie had acquired a deep long gash on her leg which left me with blood covering my hands. I felt devestated by guilt and concern for my loyal travelling companion. My mind raced through alternative solutions that would be best for my poodle. I decided to get away from the crowds, and give rosie a rest to allow the injury to clot and stop bleeding. It did work, but I would have given anythign not to have a problem like that to solve. The urge to climb mountains is a really tough one to explain, so I may have to re-visit this theme to articulate it more clearly. Hotel: after a meal, there was no getting round the fact that I was too tired to drive home. Betwys-y-Coed has lots of hotels & B&Bs, it didn't take long to check in a place that allows dogs. British hotels are grotty places, they hark back to a nostalgia for classicism, but the stuff isn't that old but looks flaky in detail and smells of mildew. A great place for a novelist to seek material, or for me to read more of a Brautigan book. That book really drew me in yesterday- it takes me some time to get used to an author's voice. Don't look him up on Youtube though- he sounds like Big Bird from Sesame Street; his writing has strength. I longed for a place that is more populated by climbers and people who do stuff outside; maybe they do exist, or maybe Wales still hasn't caught on to that rich potential market. that is one country held back by under-investment and lack of imagination. Quality advice here August 21 Home by lunchtime16°C. Cloudy, On getting home: I had every intention of cycling my restless feelings away. Now all I can see is torrential rain outside. Dammit! Taking a solo holiday is revealing. Normally I can open conversation casually with strangers without any effort. But this trip I was largely in a bubble isolated from others & I think I know why: perhaps folks mistrust of single blokes travelling alone. August 20 Day 2: Van Gogh Museum19°C, heavy showers forecast, it's sunny right now.
2nd full day: more walking planned but I have a blister- let's see if wearing two pairs of socks helps. I didn't sleep very well so now have a mild headache; perhaps when I was in Japan blaming my poor sleep on the earth-quakes- I may not have slept anyway.
This certainly is a beautiful city, as expensive as London though. Later: VG museum was far busier then the Rijksmuseum. I had to queue. The tone of the labels was interesting, interesting to anyone learning to paint I'd imagine. It's clear that various phases in his work were deliberate attempts to learn skills he had identified as shortcomings himself. It's sad to reflect that he never felt that he'd "arrived" in the sense that he became a professional artist.
Anyway; My feet hurt so much from blisters that I am only comfortable in my running shoes. Now is the last part of my stay, tomorrow will be consumed with the journey back and the desire not to miss my flight. Shipol is one of the biggest airports in Europe, I need to get to the right place. Now, I'd better go and pick up some foodie souvenirs to take home. August 19 Day 1: Rijksmuseumup to 21°C, some heavy showers predicted.
Hotel: like staying in an Art gallery, the room is a bit pokey though. There are shared bathrooms, which are worth a photo in themselves. (Wait & see).
I shall have to task some shots here before I go to the Rjiksmuseum today. The light is ideal. Talking of Light- I will get to see at least some Vermeer & Rembandt today. I didn't get here early enough to look around yesterday, all I did was have a meal at a nearby bar washed down with a pint. Evening: has turned sunny but the town was plagued by rainshowers in the day- a lot of my photos look almost black/white. Even I am amazed at the numbers of bikes here, but the machines are all situp& beg, often piled up with loasdf of luggage.
I'm off now to see some sunshine. August 18 AmsterdamAugust 13 Amsterdam18°C, lots of short showers on the wind Confirmed: I'm off for a few days to Amsterdam next Monday. The booking failed at the last moment on the first attempt so I didn't get the hotel I really wanted, no disaster- the one I did get should be OK. The idea is to do the galleries, and walk and walk. If there is net access in the hotel, I can post more here next week (it's more likely that they provide wireless access but no machines). August 08 He returns14°C, rain Dorset: I came back early, the weather was poor and the county rather crowded at this time of year. I wasn't quick enough to get a video like this, but here is Portland lighthouse's for horn. They switched it off just as I was getting the camera out. June 01 Pyrénées return15°C (so far), cloudy, Cycle 44 miles later on. Longest trainride: 15 hours by train yesterday from the Canigou region of the Eastern Pyrénées. Pictures and comments may follow, you never can tell though. More reliably - view my Flickr pages. May 22 Heading SouthJune 06 Two entriesTwo themes occupying my time recently-
Holiday in Isle of Mull, and
3 Peaks Challenge.
So I will make an entry here for eachg, and add, edit and illustrate over the next few days. May 25 Mull tomorrow15°C, getting cooler & rain is coming down the Northern approaches.
Drive to the Scottish Isle of Mull. That will be one monster drive. It also means no more posts here for over a week.
Next Saturday, we drive back home, then Sunday drive back up North again with the 3~Peaks team to Glen Nevis, Scotland.
...bet I'm too tired to post on the Wednesday after returning.
Camera is all charged up and ready to go. It's hard to know what photo opportunities will be there- the weather forcast is poor- rain, sun & showers are to be expected for an island facing the Northern approaches from the Atlantic. Prepare to be surprised then.
BTW: one of my pictures is getting awards on the Flickr site: Sturgeon's field. May 17 Check and re-check20°C, rain then sun, rather humid.
Bags Packed: just checking the kit, thinking through what might happen and what to carry in response. There is just enough space left for food in the rucksack lid; side pockets lined with emergency stuff, first aid, a light, whistle and torch. Inside , some bin-liners, an extra fleece (which was laughably cheap at £2). I have loaded up with 4 litres of water based on previous climbs where I drank 2 litres each time.
...no more entries here until Sunday I expect.
Finally- you couldn't make this up:
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